It’s fair to say that since we first covered the Korean tailors Assisi here on Permanent Style, they’ve become extremely popular. They are now travelling to more destinations around the world, for longer, and we’ve seen many readers using them in London, New York and elsewhere. 

It’s well deserved. The team possess two things that a lot of tailors lack: an awareness of style that means customers have faith in their cuts and fabric choices; and a technical proficiency that means they can deliver a fit that’s as good – in my experience – as the most famous tailors in the world. 

One disadvantage of their popularity, however, is that their visits are not as frequent as other tailors. In London, for example, they’re only coming two times a year, where most would visit at least three or four times. This can mean bespoke – with its requirement for multiple fittings – can be a rather long process. 

That’s one reason I wanted to review the teams’ made-to-measure, alongside the bespoke we’ve covered in the past. All my pieces have been bespoke, but I’d seen good results of the MTM – and given that service goes straight to a finished garment, it offers a much speedier result. 

The Assisi offering is not like normal made-to-measure, which is usually something a brand offers from its factory, as a way to provide an altered version of the ready-to-wear.

Assisi uses the same tailors as its bespoke, but does a little more machine work in the chest and trousers and largely skips fittings. Interestingly, although they bring fitting garments to the trunk shows for MTM, they do then create personal paper patterns for the customer that are in theory more nuanced than most factory-made products.

Of course, we know that the refined fit of bespoke comes from the process of fittings, as a tailor gradually sculpts the garment to the customer and adjusts the paper pattern accordingly. But still, Assisi are doing the most they can to create a personal fit, on a product which has to be largely delivered as complete at the second meeting. 

The perfect combination is probably to have a bespoke garment made first with Assisi, and then use the resulting pattern to order MTM going forward. This is something they’re happy to do, and while it won’t be quite the same as bespoke, it should be close. 

I could have done that with my suit, but elected not to – in order to demonstrate what a pure MTM product from the Koreans would look like. The sacrifices I make for PS readers. 

So I ordered a double-breasted suit in glen-check Fox flannel (CL2-224). I’ve always had a weak spot for glen checks – my first expensive suit was a glen check from Etro, I got married in a glen check from Purple Label (before I’d started bespoke) and my first Savile Row suit was a glen check from Anderson & Sheppard. 

But today is not the day to discuss glen checks, and Princes of Wales, and how wearable they really are. That’s for a future date. 

Today we’re talking about Assisi MTM, and that process began with trying their fitting garments when I saw them at Pitti. I was best in a size 40, and it was a good fit for me on the front – but not great in the back. This is the comment I often get from tailors, as I look like regular proportions from the front but my back has an S shape that can be tricky to work around. 

The team took the usual measurements and photos, and we discussed style points like belt loops and cuffs on the trousers, as well as buttoning point on the jacket. Unlike some MTM, you can change quite a lot on the design of an Assisi MTM commission, because a bespoke pattern is going to be made anyway. MTM in a factory often uses set patterns, so there are more restrictions.

I received the suit when the team came to London in September. They like to deliver the tailoring in person, and then make small alterations if needed – things like waist or length alterations on the trousers, sleeve length on the jacket. Bigger things like the chest or shoulders on the jacket cannot be changed. 

With me, we had to make a small change to the trouser length and sleeve length, but that was it. They then shipped the suit to me and I received it three weeks later. 

The fit was very good, as I expected – not quite as good as my bespoke, particularly on the back, but certainly as good as any other MTM I’ve tried and better than some bespoke. 

The images below are a good reflection of how clean the front is. The block is a good match for me which should be taken into account, but even so most MTM and many tailors struggle to get the chest that clean on me on both sides, with my right dropped shoulder sometimes causing problems. 

The back has slightly more folds on either side than with my bespoke from Assisi – suggesting that could do with being lifted up a bit – but it’s not bad. Ignore the folds around my hips and seat, that’s just because I’ve been wearing and sitting in the suit all day (I usually shoot things when they’ve been worn a bit, it’s more realistic).

The handwork you don’t get with MTM is hand-padding of the chest (though the lapels are still hand-padded) and the construction of the skirt and so on inside the trousers. The change on the trousers I don’t notice at all, and while handwork there really is a lovely piece of craft, the difference in fit and comfort is a tiny one in my experience. 

On the chest, I do notice a small difference in the way the jacket moulds to me – slightly less three-dimensional than with bespoke. It sits a little flatter and that affects the way the skirt hangs as well. But still, these will be small things for most readers. I doubt anyone other than an enthusiast would notice. 

I’d certainly recommend the Assisi MTM therefore, at least for the type of customer than isn’t really into the craft of bespoke. The style is great and the fit very good too. 

Going forward, I would still buy bespoke from Assisi if I could, but I can definitely see myself using my bespoke pattern with the MTM construction, particularly if it meant receiving something in six months rather than a year. 

That’s good because Assisi’s popularity means they’re also cutting down on how much they offer bespoke. They don’t have the capacity for more and are actually trying to increase the quality and fineness of the bespoke side, which will reduce capacity further. 

It’s not easy to work out how to deal with this level of demand – you want to make for everybody, but also not be away from the workshop for long, or start pushing out delivery times. I know the guys are trying to navigate this in the best way they can, but it certainly helps that their quicker, easier MTM is this good. 

Details:

• Assisi MTM in the UK and US costs $2950 for a single-breasted suit, $3540 for a double-breasted.
• Bespoke, where available, is around 30% more.
• Most things are available MTM, an exception being raglan coats.
• It is available in sizes 46 to 56, which is the sizes they bring try-on garments for. Beyond that, they recommend bespoke.
• Cloth used is Fox Brothers CL2-24, 14-15oz

Other clothes: 

• Bespoke shirt from D’Avino in ice-blue poplin
• E Marinella silk tie
• Canons bespoke suede oxfords
• Permanent Style ‘Exmoor’ collared knit
• Vintage horsebit black loafers